Docker

Docker in 12 minutes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFl2mCHdv24

Docker compose in 12 minutes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qw9zlE3t8Ko

Docker on AWS: https://hackernoon.com/running-docker-on-aws-ec2-83a14b780c56

Laravel + Docker Part 1

Laravel + Docker Part 2 — preparing for production

Laradock docs: http://laradock.io/documentation/

Contents of a simple Dockerfile:

FROM php:7.0-apache
COPY src/ /var/www/html/
EXPOSE 80

Build a simple Dockerfile:

docker build -t hello-world .

Run a simple docker image:

docker run -p 8001:80 -v /home/user/projects/docker/src/:/var/www/html/ hello-world

Stop all docker containers:

docker stop $(docker ps -a -q)

Remove all docker containers:

docker rm $(docker ps -a -q)

Setting up a Laravel environment:

Make a new directory for your project and execute the following:

git clone https://github.com/laravel/laravel.git
cd laravel
rm -rf .git
git clone https://github.com/Laradock/laradock.git
#OR #git init
#git submodule add https://github.com/LaraDock/laradock.git
cp .env.example .env
### now change the Laravel .env file with the change described later
cd laradock/
cp env-example .env
### now change the MYSQL_VERSION in .env file to 5.7 to avoid authentication errors
docker-compose up -d nginx mysql phpmyadmin redis workspace
docker exec -it laradock_workspace_1 bash
root@dockerContainer:/var/www# composer install
root@dockerContainer:/var/www# php artisan migrate:install
root@dockerContainer:/var/www# php artisan migrate:status
...
docker-compose down

 Changes in Laravel project .env file:

DB_HOST=mysql
DB_DATABASE=default
DB_USERNAME=default
DB_PASSWORD=secret
REDIS_HOST=redis
QUEUE_HOST=beanstalkd

Changes in Laradock .env file (if previously built, check https://github.com/laradock/laradock/issues/1407 ):

MYSQL_VERSION=5.7

Changes in .gitignore in Laravel project (add):

/laradock

p.s. Laravel on AWS with beanstalk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISVaMijczKc
root@7193d0b0ef22:~# npm install apidoc -g

Postman extension crashing on startup

What to do if Postman crashes on startup & sync is not enabled, but you want to get your request collections?
Open Chrome (or Chromium) and open address: chrome://indexeddb-internals
Find the database for chrome-extension://fhbjgbiflinjbdggehcddcbncdddomop
Download it and store in a safe place (remember - your collections are stored there).
When you are sure you have backed up the old postman database (file chrome-extension_fhbjgbiflinjbdggehcddcbncdddomop_0.zip), delete it from the chrome storage folder.
Delete the log files from the existing database folder (e.g. 000xxx.log and LOG, LOG.old).
Try starting the extension again.
If that doesn't work - delete the database file, uninstall postman, reinstall postman, start it from new, close it and replace all files except log files from the old backup to the new database.

vim

Great VIM tutorials:
http://derekwyatt.org/vim/tutorials/

Movement (:h motion.txt)

0, $ - begging and end of line

w, W - beginning of word
e, E - end of word
b, B - beginning of word (backwards)
ge, gE - end of word (backwards)

f, F - next character in line (cap for backwards)
t, T - till next character in line (cap for backwards)
; - repeat last character search in line

C-u, C-d - half page scroll (up, down)
gg - beginning of file
G - end of file
H - top visible line
M - middle visible line
L - lower visible line

* - search current full word (n - next, N - previous)
# - search current full word backwards  (n - next, N - previous)
g* - search current word anywhere
g# - search current word anywhere

/ - search (regex, etc)
? - search backwards

]] - next opening brace
[[ - prev opening brace
% - matching brace (or tags with matchit.vim)

----
i - insert
I - insert in beggining of line
a - append (after current character)
A - append at end of line
o - insert new line
O -  insert new line above
x - delete one char
X - delete one char reverse
d - delete (combine with motions, dw - delete word from current char, diw - delete inside word)
D - delete until end of line
c - change (delete and put in insert mode, combine with motions e.g. ciw to change inside word)
C - change until end of line
r - replace one char
R - replace mode
. - repeat last action
y - yank
Y - yank line
p - put
P - put before
J - join line
gJ - join without spaces
v - visual mode
V - visual line mode
Ctrl-V - visual block mode
gv - reselect previous visual selection

----
Buffers
:ls - list buffers
:b2 - open buffern #2
:bp - previous buffer
Ctrl-6 - previous buffer

----
CtrlP (ctags)
:!ctags -R = generate tags file (.gitignore it)
Ctrl-] - jump to defintion
Ctrl-t -jump to previous tage
:tag sometag - look for tag
:tn, :tp, :ts - tag next, prev and list
----
Ctrl-e in insert mode to expand css style html (with sparkup plugin)

TwinSpark engine upgrade paths

Plan A (race type high-compression)
http://catcams.co.uk/acatalog/Alfa_Romeo_75___164_2.0L_Twin_Spark.html
http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/www/product.php?pid=AR20BP300
http://www.cb-cams.com/catalogo_auto.php?lang=ita&sel_id_marca=1

CR 11.3:1 - 12.:1
Venolia, JE, ASSO, Ross, Jahns, Accralite, BRC, CPS pistons


Plan B (mild street engine with mostly stock parts)

Using NORD rods (1mm longer than 75 ones), the protrusion of the edge of the piston to the block deck will be 0.25mm, so it's needed to chamfer slightly the top of the piston, and this will give you 11:1 CR, being also needed to deep a little the valve pockets on the piston, no worries, 75 TS piston crown is 1mm thicker than the 155 one, so you have enough material.

 FMG_V6_btb thread (roller throttles thread)

Stock parts performace TS discussion



Plan C (mild turbo)

GT2560R specs


Sources:
- 200HP TS engine (spider) | ITB thread
- TS with Nord rods
- GTV with modded TS
- Cam designs and performance
- TS with MS and ITB's on Alfabb
- Spider TS conversion
- Suzuki GSXR ITB's on a swift engine
- GSXR throttle bodies on Toyota engine
- Nord with GSXR 750 ITB's
- Mikuni's on 2l (87% diameter venturi for intake valve diam.)
- Spider with mikuni's
- R1 mikunis on a Toyota
- R1 carbs x-flow (fuel pressure important)
- Turbo TS discussion @ Alfabb (Mende with imsa too)
- Cheap TSTurbo @ alfapower.nu
- Flying miata turbo kit (with GT2560R, 250hp from stock internals)
- My topic at AlfaBB
- Cam discussions with Richard Jemison (Nord engine)
- Cam timing (Richard Jemison), early/late VVT
- TS intake options | shopping list for conversion (Nord to TS)

Alfa 155 1.8TS Sport, AR67102, 167A4C

Tensioning the chain:

This is how I do it, set the crank at tdc, turn exhaust cam clockwise and connect chain, rotate exhaust cam anti clockwise to take up slack from intermediate gear to exhaust cam. rotate intake cam clockwise to get slack inbetween cams, connect master link, rotate intake cam clockwise to take up slack. This way the only slack in the chain is between the intermediate sprocket, tensioner, and intake cam. This is taken up by loosening the tensioner bolt on the front of the head. It will snap out and take up all the slack, tighten bolt. If the cam timing is set right the marks on the cams and #'s 1 and 6 cam caps will line up. Hope that helps.

Setting idle

I have no exact data of what the base idle rpm should be on a 24v. You'll have to do it by trial and error. But the procedure is done like this:-

Below is the procedure for a 3.0 V6 24v. I used to do this for a living and it isn't that hard if you're handy with a screw driver and willing to learn.
1. First you make sure that you have no air leaks in or around your inlet manifold, intake tubes, throttle body, brake servo, plenum chamber, injectors, airflow meter etc. You do this by warming the engine up fully then unplugging the ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) and then with the engine running (it will be idling faster than normal) spraying with a can of "cold start" or "start it" in the area of any possible leak sites. If the spraying causes the engine revs to increase or decrease you have found the site of a leak. If the engine revs stay the same while you are spraying then you do not have a leak. You may now put the plug on the ISCV back in.2. If you have a leak, fix it before doing anything else!3. If you have the facilities to do so, check the mixture using a gas analyser. If you do not have this facility then you can skip it, but if there is a problem with your mixture control it will effect your idle control. On an engine with a catalytic converter, if your CO% is 0-0.2% then you can move on to the next step. If the CO% is higher than 0.2 you have a problem. If so check the O2 sensor is switching. You should find that the signal wire shows the voltage fluctuating, up, then down, up again then down etc. (if not, replace it).You might think this is a hell of a rigmarole just to adjust the idle, but it should be pointed out that the idle speed should control itself, therefore if your idle is incorrect then you have a fault somewhere. or someone has already been fiddling with it and messed the settings up.4. Now unplug the throttle position sensor (TPS) on the side of the throttle body. Loosen the screws that hold the throttle position sensor so that it may pivot freely.5. Remove the black plastic cover that goes over the cable side of the throttle mechanism. You should now see a small throttle stop screw on the top of the throttle body. Squirt some WD40 or similar onto the screw to help make sure it will move freely (it may be tight due to never having been adjusted before).6. With the engine running, you may now set the idle speed using the throttle stop screw to approximately 975-1050rpm (make sure you use a GOOD screwdriver for this as it is very easy to mess the head of the screw up). You may find your 24v engine works better at a different setting so you will have to use trial and error here. PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS SETTING OF 975-1050RPM IS AN EDUCATED GUESS (I don't have the exact figures in any of my data files).7. Turn the engine off.8. With the engine still turned off but with the ignition on, set/twist the TPS so that in the throttle closed position the voltage from the signal wire is 0.5v. Tighten the screws holding the TPS in this position. Make sure that you haven't used too much force whilst twisting the TPS or you might find that the throttle doesn't return all the way to the throttle stop screw! Now recheck the same wire with the throttle fully open and make sure it is as close as possible to 4.4v.9. Make sure you haven't dislodged the throttle cable from the cam that it goes around (often happens when you're operating the throttle manually from under the bonnet). If you forget this step you may find that your engine will rev its balls off when you restart the engine!10. Restart the engine. Check the idle is still between 975 and 1050rpm or at the same setting as it was before you adjusted the TPS.11. You may now plug the TPS back in. The engine revs should now decrease to about 650-800rpm (if the revs are too hi or low start the whole procedure again and set the base idle at a different level).Thats it, you should by now have successfully reset your "base idle speed".If you still have problems, then you might suspect ISCV but it is probably best to call in a diagnostic specialist/engine tuner at this point. He would then test the ignition system, wiring and other things on an oscilloscope before replacing parts willy-nilly.

by: sportstron @ alfa 164 register http://www.alfaromeo164register.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=928&start=25