j.k. bloooog: 2012

20121218

Client-side security

Key points:
-https (strict-transport-security header)
-xss
-escaping input
-filtering output
-content-security-policy (no inline scripts), report only mode possible
-sandboxing iframes with minimal rights

presentation - Mike West

20121017

Alfa 75 ABS

Cars that used the TEVES MARK 2 ABS (4-wheel, Integral), no mention of ALFA. Doesn't mean it is an equal exchange (fits)

1985 to 1989 Lincoln Continental
1985 to 1992 Lincoln Mark VII
1986 to 1989 Buick LeSabre
1986 to 1990 Buick Electra, Park Avenue
1986 to 1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 to 1990 Cadillac DeVille
1986 to 1990 Oldsmobile 98
1986 to 1990 Pontiac 6000 STE
1987 to 1992 Ford Thunderbird
1987 to 1992 Mercury Cougar
1987 to 1993 Saab 9000
1988 to 1989 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1988 to 1989 Buick Reatta, Riviera
1988 to 1989 Merkur Scorpio
1988 to 1990 Oldsmobile Delta 88, Toronado
1988 to 1991 Peugeot 505
1988 to 1990 Pontiac Bonneville & SSE
1991 to 1993 Saab 900
1991 to 1993 Volkswagen Passat

Buick accumulator part number: 25528382 (can be used on Alfa pump)
Buick pump part number: 25535686
http://oewarehouse.com/item.wws?sku=25535686&itempk=15074&mfr=A17&weight=1

- http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/abs-system.html
- "Debugging the ABS system by Shiv Sikand, John Fox and Rich Hirsch"
- How to bleed XJS brake system (accumulator change)
- Corrado 88 -> http://www.vwclub.bg/uploaded/manual/ABS/ABS_MKII.pdf
- Teves on Reattas (bleeding procedure)
- autozone (Ford Thunderbird)
- Tbird accumulator (NEW) - 125USD
- ABS Accumulator on ebay
ACDelco 25528382 on Ebay ACDelco 25528382 on Amazon Reatta pump on Alfa (how-to)

if the accumulator is all the way bad when you hit the breaks the pedel will be hard and you will feel the pump kick on and the pedel pump up and the breaks will come on slow. the light will flick on and flick off very fast any time you change the pedal force and the light and motor will kick on and off Amazon.com + http://www.shipito.com/tutorials

Hansaflex:
Akumulators: HK OLM-0.32-210A
Adapters: XVR NW 03 HS 1/2 ED (M14x1.5 mm - esprit?)
precharged at 90 bar
http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/46962-alternatives-to-original-accumulator-gm/
http://www.lotus-forum.de/WBB/board14-lotus-cars/board7-lotus-classic/7000-abs-druckspeicher-found-the-alternative/

----
As several others have mentioned the system is pretty good but you need to always have good clean fluid in the system.

Go out on the street with no one around and do a simulated panic stop from about 20 MPH. If the car stops straight ahead without a hard pedal or pulling to one side or the other your system is in good condition.

If the brake fluid has not been changed in the last few years, change it and you should not have any problems.

I normally have in stock good systems and the two of the three parts that go bad. These are the pressure switches, the pumps and the accumulators. I have good pressure switches, and pumps but get a new accumulator from Ronnies site.

You can do some tests to determine if you need an accumulator.

Here is the instructions on how to change the fluid.

1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be
changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system.
2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal
should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600
pounds of pressure in the accumulator.
3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid.
4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system.
5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional
method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders.
6. To bleed the rear brakes
A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize
B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it.
C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear
fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding)
When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

20120919

Audruring / Parnu track / LT

Track guide: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9kuj9pg1o8
Onboard with datalogger: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_enBkZhuIY
Didzis Pope 2012 race onboard: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDz16LI7Hvw

20120731

TODO 75

- sametināt siju
- noregulēt lukturi
- noregulēt bremzi
- gultnis ?
- degvielas trubas ?
- samainīt riepas
- pārbaudīt kārbas eļļas līmeni
- bleeder repair:
http://www.levineautoparts.com/bleederrepair.html
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/240-797
Atgaisotājs 38mm suportam M10x1 Audi kods 357 615 273
thread: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/calibration_measurement/61753-m10x1_0_6h_thread.html

M10 x 1, 6H inside thread:
Min. outer dia = 10.000
Min. Pitch dia = 9.350
Max. Pitch dia = 9.500
Min. Inside dia = 8.917
Max Inside dia = 9.153
Tol. on metric threads i.e. 6H are standard ISO tol. 6H.

Ferrari brake caliper rebuild: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.473740938192.245424.72240238192 http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/suspension-brakes-wheels-tires/155782-rebuilding-pesky-milano-gtv6-rear-caliper-2.html http://www.pmbperformance.com/page/page/1925687.htm

20120726

Tyres and pressures

The R888 has a semi race construction (very stiff) and a race tread compound. The optimum tread temperature range is between 85C and 95C measured using a probe type pyrometer, and ideally a maximum difference across the tread of 9C. The maximum hot pressure we recommend is 40psi. Camber angles up to 5 degrees are permissible but the final setting will depend on tread temperatures. It is advisable to have as much positive castor as practical as castor induces a beneficial camber change during cornering. I recommend that the tyres be put through 2 heat cycles before hard use.

The pressures you use will initially depend on the weight of the car, too little pressure on a heavy car can lead to over deflection of the tyre and subsequent failure.

Below are some basic settings:

VEHICLE WEIGHT COLD PRESSURE HOT PRESSURE
Very Light < 800kg 17 - 22 psi 22 - 29 psi
Light 800kg - 1000kg 20 - 26 psi 24 - 32 psi
Heavy 1000kg - 1400kg 23 - 27 psi 28 - 40 psi
Very Heavy > 1400kg 27 - 35 psi 37 - 40 psi

As a tyre gets hotter the pressure increases, this is due to the moisture in the air. The cold pressure you set to achieve a desired hot pressure will depend on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry. If the day/track is cold you will need to start with a higher cold pressure as the tyre will not get as hot therefore the pressure increase will not be so great.
Hot pressures must be balanced side to side. Once the tyres have cooled you will find that you will have a difference in pressure side to side, if you have been racing on a right hand track you will find the offside pressures will usually be higher than the nearside.

Changing hot inflation pressures by small amounts can be used to fine tune handling.

Reduce Oversteer Reduce rear pressures or increase front pressures
Increase Oversteer Increase rear pressures or reduce front pressures
Reduce Understeer Reduce front pressures or increase rear pressures
Increase Understeer Increase front pressures or reduce rear pressures

Achieving the required tread temperatures will depend again on the conditions on the day i.e. ambient and track temperature, wet or dry.

You often here competitors saying “My tyres started to go of towards the end of the race”, this is usually due to the tread getting to hot.

The tread temperatures are constantly changing through out a race, hotter when cornering and cooler when on the straights and cooling even more when you are slowing to come into the pits. Therefore the temps you record in the pits will be lower than those during the race. So if you record temperatures within the range given above the probability is the temps will be too high during the race.

Increasing your tyre pressures will cause your tread temperatures to increase, more pressure stiffens the tyre’s casing which results in the tread having to do more work resulting in the tread getting hotter. Lowering your pressures will cause them to decrease.

Inevitably changing one thing will affect other things, the whole set up of your car is a compromise between anything that is adjustable

20120626

Gimp 2.8

>= ubuntu 12.4 Precise
Package source can be found here

20120417

The last Ringmeister

20120410

Why PHP is bad

http://me.veekun.com/blog/2012/04/09/php-a-fractal-of-bad-design/

20120330

Android izstrade

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfdpYFMax8M

SE ARC:
sudo vim /etc/udev/rules.d/51-android.rules

SUBSYSTEM=="usb", SYSFS{idVendor}=="0fce", MODE="0666"

sudo chmod +x /etc/udev/rules.d/51-android.rules

Rules for most phones: http://howto.ccroms.net/android_project/build/basic/rules

20120326

Kā atrast īso

20120320

75 todo

-clean afm
-change rear bearings
-install new intake rubbers
-alignment

At the moment I'm running (+/- Street)
-1.25 degrees camber
4.5 degrees castor
0.1 degree toe in.

More track oriented:
-1.5 to -2.0 degrees camber
5 degrees castor
0.1 degree toe in

Mine runs about -2 degrees camber, 5 degrees castor and with street driving to get the tyres wearing evenly, about 5mm toe in. I would expect to have to fiddle a bit with the toe in to get the tyres wearing evenly, particularly with a non stock set up.

AlfaBB

Alignment info: tirerack | familycar

20120318

How to increase mechanical grip

Instructions
1. Increase the width of the tires. This increases the contact patch and allows the tires to generate more grip.

2. Optimize the tire pressure. Test different tire pressures to see what allows you the highest lateral cornering force.

3. Change the camber in the tires. The camber is how much the tires lean in toward the center of the vehicle. Leaning the tires in toward center will allow the contact patch to be larger during hard cornering and therefore increase cornering grip. However, it can decrease the contact patch under straight line braking, and increase the braking distance.

4. Soften the suspension. Softening the suspension allows the tires to better deal with bumps in the road, which can increase the time the tire is in contact with the road, and therefore increase their grip. Over-softening the suspension can cause the car to loose grip as it can reduce the efficiency of the inside tire.

Note: Always test your changes with data on lap times and cornering, accelerating and braking forces to make sure they have the desired effect.

NB: Make changes in small increments otherwise you can accidentally make the car undrivable

Read more: How to Get a Mechanical Grip in a Race Car | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7569267_mechanical-grip-race-car.html#ixzz1pTDoe7zY