20121017

Alfa 75 ABS

Cars that used the TEVES MARK 2 ABS (4-wheel, Integral), no mention of ALFA. Doesn't mean it is an equal exchange (fits)

1985 to 1989 Lincoln Continental
1985 to 1992 Lincoln Mark VII
1986 to 1989 Buick LeSabre
1986 to 1990 Buick Electra, Park Avenue
1986 to 1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 to 1990 Cadillac DeVille
1986 to 1990 Oldsmobile 98
1986 to 1990 Pontiac 6000 STE
1987 to 1992 Ford Thunderbird
1987 to 1992 Mercury Cougar
1987 to 1993 Saab 9000
1988 to 1989 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville
1988 to 1989 Buick Reatta, Riviera
1988 to 1989 Merkur Scorpio
1988 to 1990 Oldsmobile Delta 88, Toronado
1988 to 1991 Peugeot 505
1988 to 1990 Pontiac Bonneville & SSE
1991 to 1993 Saab 900
1991 to 1993 Volkswagen Passat

Buick accumulator part number: 25528382 (can be used on Alfa pump)
Buick pump part number: 25535686
http://oewarehouse.com/item.wws?sku=25535686&itempk=15074&mfr=A17&weight=1

- http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/abs-system.html
- "Debugging the ABS system by Shiv Sikand, John Fox and Rich Hirsch"
How to bleed XJS brake system (accumulator change)
- Corrado 88 -> http://www.vwclub.bg/uploaded/manual/ABS/ABS_MKII.pdf
- Teves on Reattas (bleeding procedure)
- autozone (Ford Thunderbird)
- Tbird accumulator (NEW) - 125USD
- ABS Accumulator on ebay
ACDelco 25528382 on Ebay ACDelco 25528382 on Amazon Reatta pump on Alfa (how-to)

if the accumulator is all the way bad when you hit the breaks the pedel will be hard and you will feel the pump kick on and the pedel pump up and the breaks will come on slow. the light will flick on and flick off very fast any time you change the pedal force and the light and motor will kick on and off Amazon.com + http://www.shipito.com/tutorials

Hansaflex:
Akumulators: HK OLM-0.32-210A
Adapters: XVR NW 03 HS 1/2 ED (M14x1.5 mm - esprit?)
precharged at 90 bar
http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/46962-alternatives-to-original-accumulator-gm/
http://www.lotus-forum.de/WBB/board14-lotus-cars/board7-lotus-classic/7000-abs-druckspeicher-found-the-alternative/

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As several others have mentioned the system is pretty good but you need to always have good clean fluid in the system.

 Go out on the street with no one around and do a simulated panic stop from about 20 MPH. If the car stops straight ahead without a hard pedal or pulling to one side or the other your system is in good condition.

 If the brake fluid has not been changed in the last few years, change it and you should not have any problems.

 I normally have in stock good systems and the two of the three parts that go bad. These are the pressure switches, the pumps and the accumulators. I have good pressure switches, and pumps but get a new accumulator from Ronnies site.

 You can do some tests to determine if you need an accumulator.

 Here is the instructions on how to change the fluid.

 1. It is HIGHLY recommended that all the fluid in the whole system be
 changed with new fluid to eliminate any built up moisture in the system.
 2. Any time the brake hydraulic system is to be opened the brake pedal
 should be pumped 25 times with the key off to bleed off the 2600
 pounds of pressure in the accumulator.
 3. Siphon out as much of the old fluid as possible from the reservoir and refill with clean fluid to the top. Another good way is to cut the rubber hose that comes from the reservoir right where it attaches to the ABS pump and let all the fluid in the reservoir run out. Then remove the piece of hose still attached to the pump and reinstall the rubber hose. It is long enough to do this. I like to cut it rather than try and remove it because the hose sticks really hard to the plastic fitting and you might break the fitting trying to take the hose off. Doing it this way you get all the fluid out of the reservoir before putting in new clean fluid.
 4. When doing the rear wheels only let out about a half of a cup and then refill the reservoir. This is to make sure you don't take out too much and get air into the system.
 5. To bleed the front brakes have the key off and bleed in a conventional
 method. Have someone pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the other person opens the front bleeders.
 6. To bleed the rear brakes
 A. Turn on the key and allow the system to pressurize
 B. Have an assistant slightly depress the pedal and hold it.
 C. Open each rear bleeder, one at a time, and hold open until clear
 fluid comes out. (The pump and motor will do the bleeding)
 When you are done there are high and low marks on the reservoir and after the system pump and motor has run and the lights are out the level should be at the low mark. When you have pumped the brakes with the key off 25 times the level will be at the high mark.

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